Source: Build Your Own House and Home

There are many technical considerations in planning your bathroom, but make sure that it is a place that you can relax and enjoy as well, with this Build Your Own House and Home’s comprehensive smart guide to planning the perfect bathroom.

For most of us the bathroom is still the smallest room in the house so when planning a new bathroom or even just a revamp you’ll want to make the most of limited space. A good starting point is to assess your needs. Jot down what you would like in your bathroom.

Who will use the bathroom? Do you need to install a handrail, fit safety locks on cabinets, buy easy-to-use taps and easy grab door knobs?

Is there enough space to include all the fittings you want? Maybe you would like a separate shower and bath, rather than a two in one option, and a bidet as well as a loo.

Will your heating system heat the room efficiently? Do you have space for a heated towel rail – some models are powerful enough to heat an entire room. Or would under floor heating be more effective?

What about storage? Will you have space for laundry and cabinet storage? If space is an issue you could design in niches in a wall for shelving. Where will you store towels and bathing accessories? Do you like to use the bathroom as a dressing room? Do you need wardrobe storage?

Wish list

Bathroom design has come on considerably in the last number of years and we’re now splashing out even more money than ever on our suite petites. Before you visit a showroom look at your room design and think about the kind of style you would like that is best suited to the space. Make a scrapbook of colour ideas, fittings and sanitary ware to give you inspiration. Do you want to go contemporary, traditional, country, industrial or hotel chic?

Layout

Once you’ve assessed your needs and thought about style, you can now start to design a layout. Draw up a plan of your bathroom, accurately detailing all recesses and awkward spaces, heights from (floor to sloping ceiling and don’t

forget to mark out windows, doors and radiators. Don’t worry if this is not to scale, most suppliers will call to your house to take measurements themselves and discuss a layout.

Choosing a sink

The sink is a fundamental bathroom fixture and over the years it has evolved from a simple ceramic basin to a serious piece of design kit.

Shape: Choose from rectilinear shapes or the more popular curved bowls. Manufacturers even make smaller, tapered sinks for really small bathrooms. Remember that sharp internal angles will make cleaning your basin more difficult.

Size: How you use the sink will help you decide what size you need. In an en suite shared by a couple, it’s always worth considering installing two basins side by side.

Support structure: There are three different ways to support a sink. A counter-mounted sink is where the bowl rests on top of the counter or is set into the counter with the front edge protruding. Pedestal sinks typically comprise a ceramic bowl sitting on a matching ceramic pedestal (which conceals the plumbing). A wall mounted sink is where the sink is mounted on the wall and all plumbing and pipes concealed. It’s good for small spaces, though a heavy sink will need a strong wall to bear the weight.

Material: Forget ceramic, if you want to make a splash in the bathroom choose from the vast range of materials now on the market – stone, wood, glass or stainless steel.

Choosing a loo

Where and how to position your loo will have a bearing on the look of your bathroom. The current trend is for simple style, ultra white loos. Back to wall A separate cistern is concealed in the wall or within fitted furniture and the pan

butts up against this wall of furniture. Close coupled The cistern and pan are joined in one complete unit, with the cistern positioned on the wall high above the pan. Wall hung The loo is cantilevered from the wall. You will need a support bracket and in some cases the wall will need to be strengthened to support the weight.

Choosing a shower

Showering should be an invigorating experience and the shower you choose will depend on how many times a day you want to use it, and of course the space available. Electric showers are quick and easy to install and the most economical and convenient to use. Electric showers are fed by mains water, which is heated by a heater in the shower unit. Mixer showers are the simplest form of shower and ideal in homes with a readily available hot water supply. Choose from two types of mixers. A manual shower mixer blends the hot and cold water but is not thermostatically controlled. A thermostatic mixer shower blends incoming water to the required temperature which is at a pre-set level. Power showers incorporate a booster pump in one compact unit to boost the (ow rate. A pump automatically turns on and off every time you operate the shower. Note that a power shower cannot be attached to the mains supply, it can only be used with gravity fed systems.

Choosing a bath

• Consider both the external and internal shape of the bath. The external shape will dictate where you locate it, the internal shape will have more bearing on your comfort.
• Don’t be afraid to test out the tub in the showroom and lie down in it as you would at home.
• Compare different models of the same size bath, you’d be surprised that one may have more space inside than another of the same size.
• A white bath is still the form favourite among homeowners but today’s modern baths are available in a range of bold colours and cool materials – glass, acrylic, metal, stone.
• If you’ve got space consider a tub fit for two.  Place the taps in the middle rather than at the end for maximum comfort. Where space is tight, consider a shower over the bath.

Walls

Paint is of course a versatile and inexpensive covering but pick one that’s suited to the wet conditions of the bathroom, like Crown’s specially formulated bathroom emulsion. You will need splashback around the sink, bath and shower attached to the wall and tiles are a great choice. Another option is wood panelling which is great disguising any uneven surfaces.

Flooring

Ceramic tiles remain the popular choice underfoot, although mosaic can look pretty cool too. Rubber (flooring is waterproof, as well as slip resistant ideally

suited to bathrooms. If you want to make statement consider metal tiles – they might be underfoot but they’ll definitely enhance a small space.

Lighting

There is often little natural light in bathrooms so design needs to be (flexible enough to change bright to moody when required. Before tackling though, it’s best to consult your electrician to discuss safety regulations. Consider installing voltage halogen lights or recessed downlighters ceiling; light underneath the bath and highlight recesses or sinks with directional lighting.

Build Your Own House and Home is Ireland’s most comprehensive annual guide which showcases fantastic bespoke homes from around the country with lots of inspiring ideas to steal from budget to blow the budget options. In an extensive information section the publication covers everything you need to know before embarking on a home-build project, from building techniques, to build methods, planning permission, waste, water and energy, right through to decorating and finishing you project. Find the 2008, 340-page guide in stores now.

Source: Build Your Own House and Home

The kitchen is still the busiest room in the house, but these days spending time in it can be a pleasurable experience, rather than a chore, with an abundance of new technology and exciting designs. Build Your Own House and Home will help you to plan yours carefully and create a space that will be enjoyed by you, family and friends.

Kitchen design is not just about creating a stunning room or fitting in the coolest appliances, it’s about planning where units go and using space efficiently.

Budget

Knowing how much money you have to spend at the outset is essential, and if you stick to budget, you’ll avoid any financial disasters. As a general rule you should spend no more than 10-15% of the cost of your house on your kitchen. A kitchen is an investment and a well planned and well designed one will not only make it an enjoyable space to use, it will make your property more attractive when it comes to selling.

Draw up a plan

Before you approach a designer make a wish list of your dream kitchen. Put together a scrapbook of kitchen styles, finishes, appliances and storage ideas you like, with pictures cut out from magazines. It’s also worth drawing a basic plan of the size and shape of your kitchen to take with you. Accurately detail the width of all walls, including alcoves. Don’t forget to mark in the position of windows, radiators and doors. You may also want to mark in the height of the room where there are sloping ceilings. Is there a good route between key areas? Do you have adequate electrical sockets? What storage works and what doesn’t? Where will you eat? If you will eat in the kitchen you might want to consider buying a dining table – ideally one that can open out to accommodate guests. Or what about a breakfast bar? Next make a list of all the appliances you want, including smaller items such as pots and pans.

Choosing a company

• It’s often a good idea to pick a company within easy reach of your home as a few visits may be necessary.
• Never commission a company online or over the phone. Meet the designer face to face and have a good chat about what you’d like.
• Personal recommendations are best but if this is not possible check the credentials of the company. Ask to see kitchens that they have designed and talk to the owners.
• Check what’s included. Will the company oversee the design from start to finish? Is plumbing and electrics included? Check that appliances have guarantees.

Layout

The shape and size of the room will dictate how you lay out your kitchen.

• Galley
  This layout is best suited to long, narrow, small spaces with units and appliances against one wall. For best results keep the hob and sink close together; go for fully integrated under-counter appliances; and consider cut-out niches in walls for storage. Plumbed appliances are generally placed against an outside wall.
• Double galley
  This layout features two runs of units facing each other on opposite walls. If your room is small but wide this design is ideal. Note that the distance between the two runs should be at least 42in wide to work efficiently.
• L-shaped
  In this layout units run along two walls in a basic L shape. This has the advantage of continuous worktop space between the three points of the triangle, and a shorter distance between each of the working areas. Keep the cooker, fridge and sink no more than 3ft from each other for easy access.
• Linear
  In this kitchen all the units and appliances are contained in one run. If you are using this layout in a long room, try to keep the sink, fridge and hob reasonably close to each other to minimise walking up and down between them.
• U-shaped
  This layout is suited to more spacious kitchens with units running along three sides, leaving the fourth side open to use as a dining area. Positioning the fridge, hob and cooker in the middle of each wall can give you the perfect triangle, but in a larger kitchen it’s better to place one or more of these in an island unit to make the space more manageable.
• Island
  In an island kitchen a freestanding unit stands in the middle of the room and can accommodate a hob, cooker, sink extra storage and worktop. This layout is ideal in larger kitchens where space is not an issue, or in kitchens connected by dining or living areas – here the island can be used to define the spaces.

The look

Once you’ve decided on the layout of your kitchen and just what bits and pieces you need, it’s time to think about the look of the place. Do you want a rustic kitchen or a steely modern one? Do you want fitted or unfitted? A fitted kitchen is easy to buy and will give you a neat and tidy look. An unfitted kitchen will give you a more personal look and you can take elements away with you when you move house. Remember you don’t have to go for a standard look, you can mix and match shop bought pieces with your own stuff or customise an off-the-peg kitchen with some brilliant colour.

Storage

Good storage is key in a kitchen – you’ll need space for food, crockery, utensils, cutlery, cook books and big pots and pans.

• If you have space, consider a larder or pantry cupboard. Choose one that opens out with a mix of storage options shelves, pull out drawers, door storage etc. Central shelves should be about 60cm deep, while mid-height shelves should be at least 15 to 30cm shallower. A cold granite shelf is a good idea and will keep fresh produce at room temperature.
• The most accessible storage area sits between knee height and eye level. Store items rarely used above and below this line. Turn dead corner space into a useful storage area with a magic carousel, fitted with doors that revolve around a pivot and swing shut into place.
• For easy access choose undercounter units that pull-out so you can get to everything that’s inside.
• In larger kitchens, tall dual-sided pull out cupboards are an efficient option because items at the back can easily be reached. Place less regularly used heavier items on the bottom shelf.
• Extra deep and extra wide drawers are a standard feature in most modern kitchens, providing space for storing awkward items like pots and pans and small appliances.

Worktops

When choosing a worktop bear in mind practicality as well as appearance, as worktops need to be robust and durable. Different materials suit different situations – choose a look that you know you can live with for many years.

• Corian:
  A synthetic resin with rounded front edges. Sinks and worktops can be made from one piece of Corian for a seamless look.
• Laminate:
  Available in a wide range of colours and designs, laminates are affordable, easy to clean and require little maintenance.
• Stainless steel:
  This trend takes its cue from the professional chef’s kitchen. Stainless steel gives the room a light and bright feel, is easy to form into any con0guration, is hygienic and needs no maintenance. It can, however, scratch easily and needs to be wiped dry or it will look smudgy.
• Glass
  Strong but can scratch quite easily so choose a glass worktop with some kind of etching or ripple effect to conceal marks.
• Wood: 
  Wood is warm and natural looking. Its natural acidity inhibits bacterial growth and scratches can be sanded out. Choose an oily wood such as Iroko or teak for the sink area.
• End-grain wood:
  This is wood turned on its end and glued together in blocks – it makes a brilliant chopping board and can be inserted into a different work surface.
• Granite:
  It’s strong, extremely durable, heat resistant and waterproof but it’s expensive as it is a hard stone to machine cut.
• Marble:
  Strong, beautiful and cool looking, marble is porous and can stain and scratch if not treated properly.

Lighting

A well-designed lighting scheme is essential for creating a pleasant working and eating environment in the kitchen. As electrical 0ttings have to be installed well before cabinetry and appliances, decide early where you want lighting to go.

• Avoid bare fluorescent lighting as it’s too harsh and tends to create shadows.
• Track lighting is a good choice but don’t just stick it in the centre of the room, position it closer to worktops, no more than 1m away from the cupboards.
• The most effective kitchen lighting is recessed downlights arranged regularly with
  wide beam lights. Don’t forget to include under-cupboard lighting, dimmable spots, and back lighting into the design. Consider a pendant light hanging above the kitchen table which will create a separate lighting environment for informal dining.
• If you don’t have a dining room, use candles to transform a meal in the kitchen into something special.

Walls

Selecting a suitable wall covering for your new kitchen is not simply a style issue. The

kitchen’s hot and steamy conditions put special demands on walls.

• Wallpaper:
  It’s not really ideal in a kitchen as the steam may cause it to peel but if you want paper make sure it’s a washable, plastic coated paper – it’s easier to keep clean.
• Tiles:
  Easy to clean, heat resistant and available in a wide choice of colours and styles. To avoid a heavy, overbearing look, cover just one wall in tiles and paint the other walls.
• Paint:
  Choose a paint that’s suited to the conditions of a kitchen like Crown’s Kitchen and Bathroom emulsion. Paint is very forgiving, easy to maintain and is inexpensive so you can easily update the look with a fresh coat every few years.
• Wood panelling:
  Useful for covering uneven areas, painted wood panels will also help insulate heat and sound.

Flooring

Kitchen floors have come a long way from plain old wood and stone, now there’s a whole gamut of unusual and colourful man-made materials to choose from. As with any flooring, remember to ask about installation and make sure the flooring is both practical and hardwearing.

• Wood:
  Wood has a warmth of colour and give, but it must be well-sealed. Too much wood in a kitchen can be overpowering, so if you want wooden units, think carefully before adding in a wooden floor.
• Tiles:
  Ceramic tiles are hardwearing, waterproof and easy to keep clean and come in a choice of many colours. Always choose non-slip tiles for a kitchen. Terracotta tiles are popular in country kitchens and are water and stain resistant when sealed.
• Vinyl:
  This is a lightweight, warm and waterproof flooring that comes in sheets or tiles, which can form a near seamless surface – so no bacteria traps.
• Rubber:
  It’s anti-slip, waterproof and burn resistant, and comes in sheets or tiles in a huge range of colours. Floortex Tel: 01 490 4420 supply Dalsouple rubber flooring, available in 70 different colours.
• Concrete:
  Gives a real industrial look to your kitchen. The basic cement, sand and water mix can be waxed or stained to obtain a more lustrous finish.

Build Your Own House and Home is Ireland’s most comprehensive annual guide which showcases fantastic bespoke homes from around the country with lots of inspiring ideas to steal from budget to blow the budget options. In an extensive information section the publication covers everything you need to know before embarking on a home-build project, from building techniques, to build methods, planning permission, waste, water and energy, right through to decorating and finishing you project. Find the 2008, 340-page guide in stores now.

You want timber floors but where do you start? We look at what's available and in the shops now.

Solid wood is timber in its purest form, entirely cut from one piece of timber either soft or hard. There are countless finish options available for solid wood, using varnish, paint, lacquer and oil. It is the longest lasting floor type, but can be high maintenance as it will need to be refinished every five to eight years. Solid wood floors are not recommended for high moisture areas as they are very porous and will tend to warp over time, although this might be a desired effect. Fitting can potentially take longer as the boards will have to acclimatise.

Cost: Depending on quality, some bards are available from as little as 40 per square metre and up to €220 for more exotic and finely finished woods.

Engineered boards, or semi solid as it’s also known, is made up of around eleven layers of solid wood and laminate, with a top layer of about usually 6mm. It is more popular in a wider plank and often pre finished and can sometimes be suitable for high moisture areas, but talk to you supplier first.

Cost: Depending on the top layer, prices can start at €50 per square metre.

Parquet is made up of smaller blocks of solid wood to achieve an intricate pattern, such as herringbone or chevron, ideal for larger rooms. Labour costs are higher and lead times are longer for this type of floor, but the results speak for themselves. Like solid wood, these floors can last several life times and will age beautifully. The unique charm of parquet floors is that you can decide how simple or intricate you want your floor depending on taste and budget.

Cost: Around €50 per square yard for a basic block to around €250 for more intricate inlay styles, not including labour.

Salvaged boards are solid wood usually conserved from large industrial warehouses or sometimes dismantled railways sleepers. There are three types available; originally flooring (usually dating before 1920), a cut floor (from old beams or railway sleepers) and a wood block (normally around 12” in length). Normally found in pitch pine or oak, salvaged boards are sought after for the worn in appeal. If buying from a reputable retailer, the boards will have been treated and ready to lay.

Cost: Dependant on species, quality, width and finish, prices can start at around €40 per square yard.

Laminate flooring is a high density fibreboard using either wholly synthetic materials or mixed with natural materials and covered with a decorative layer and melanin resin and can last up to 15 years. Make sure yours has a guarantee of no less than ten years. There are many effects available all designed to look like real wood and are either high, continuous or direct pressure laminate

Cost: From €7.99 per square yard

Need to know

• Most solid woods will have to acclimatise to your home environment before they are laid. Coming from a cold warehouse they will expand with the heat in your house so it takes around two to six weeks for the boards to find their final size. Lay your boards too early and they will buckle.
  Most boards are suitable for under-floor heating, including solid, engineered and laminates, although extremes of temperature can lead to warped boards (see acclimatisation). Your fitter should allow for expansion as the boards will always expend slightly with any heat.
• More homes are sealing their floors with oil, varnish/lacquer having been the more popular option until now. Oils needs to be redone more frequently but scratches show up less and it gives the floor a more natural glow. The traditional sealant for  salvaged oak and elm is beeswax which can be homemade for the truly eco-conscious. Always clean the floor before finishing, keep in mind excess water can lift the grain. Decorative finishes include stained, painted, bleached or limed boards.
• Sustainable forestry has been on the ecological agenda for some time now is it is not difficult to buy conscientiously. It is advised to buy from suppliers who can trace the origins of their timber, which will be authorised by international sustainability agencies, such as the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Generally North America, Western Europe and Canada have good sustainability programs.

Source: House & Home